Surviving Christmas

One of the most beloved Christmas plants in recent history is the poinsettia. Traditionally, they came in various shades of red, pink or white. Nowadays, you can find them with glitter, and in several shades of blue and even purple and lime green!


Poinsettias are native to the southern lowlands Mexico. They do not do well in fully temperate climates nor at high altitudes. They were first introduced into the United States in 1828.

The Ambassador to Mexico at the time, a man by the name of Poinsett, discovered this plant growing as a shrub on a visit to Mexico, and brought a cutting back to his greenhouse in South Carolina.

It was William Prescott who coined the term poinsettia around the year 1836 in honor of Mr. Poinsett, once the species became popular here.


Incidentally, this same Mr. Poinsett for whom this popular Christmas plant is named, also founded an American icon - the Smithsonian Institution.


In the early 1900's a southern California grower who had been growing poinsettias for outdoor landscaping use began to grow them indoors. Ecke is still the leading producer of poinsettias in the United States.


The colorful "flowers" of the poinsettia are not truly flowers at all, but bracts, or modified leaves.

They have for centuries been used to yield a purplish permanent dye for fabrics, and also in cosmetics.

In addition, the milky sap, called latex, was made into a fever reducer as far back as the days of the Aztec empire.


Contrary to popular belief, poinsettias are NOT poisonous. They do produce a milky sap, which has caused allergic rashes in certain people.

Studies performed by government agencies have discovered that a 50 pound child would have to eat fully 500 flowers (more than a pound of bracts) at one time to equal the amount used in testing. Even at that, no adverse effects have been reported (though I would imagine anyone eating that much of anything at one sitting would have a rip-roaring stomach ache!).

They are also not detrimental to pets.


These are perennial plants, and can be kept year round. In the wild, they grow as bushes or shrubs, but here in the colder North American climate, they are mostly grown as house or greenhouse plants. There are more than 1000 different species, over 100 of which are sold commercially around the world.


Poinsettias have been bred for certain characteristics. The latest introductions are "Winter Rose" with dark red bracts. Both bracts and leaves are curled. And, another, "Plum Pudding" is the first poinsettia with purple bracts.

While you will find vibrant purples and blues even at your local Wal-mart, these are actually white or cream bracts which have had dyes added to the water. The color normally lasts throughout the first season, but does not return if you keep the plants for the following year.


<center><b><font color=darkgreen><font size=4> Selection and Care</font></font></b></center>


When selecting a poinsettia, be sure that the stems are thick and stiff, and that the foliage is a dark, vibrant green.

Avoid, if you can, those plants that are displayed in sleeves, as the air needs to circulate among the bracts and leaves.

Soil should be moist, but not overly wet - especially if the plant is drooping. This could be a sign of disease or general poor quality.


Poinsettias love indirect light, for at least six hours daily. A north- or east facing window is perfect. Shade them slightly, or place on a table near south- and west-windows, or use sheer curtains or shades.

Preferably, to keep the bract colors bright and strong, daytime temperatures should not exceed 70 degrees. They should be kept well away from drafts, open windows, heat and appliances. Ducts and fireplaces which are used are no-nos, too.


Though experts say not to leave the plant in standing water, I use water trays, and fill them about once a week during growth periods, less often when the plant is dormant. It does not seem to hurt them much. Soil should be fairly moist but not wet, and let the soil get dry to the touch between waterings.


If you keep yours year round (it has been a personal challenge for me for years, and this is the first year my poinsettias might make it through a second holiday season!), you can put them outside in a sheltered area during summer.

Its best to put them where they can be brought in during rains, and once the temperatures drop below 55 degrees at night.


If you keep them, the bracts will age and die back in the spring. Once this happens, if you cut them back to about 8 inches, by May you should see strong new growth.

At this point, you can fertilize them with a well-balanced fertilizer. Replant in June, into pots no more than 4 inches larger, and into soil with plenty of leaf mold or peat moss.


Treated as such, poinsettias will bloom (produce the brightly colored bracts) again in November or December depending on the amount of light they get and the response time of the particular variety.

For Christmas blooms, plants should be in complete darkness for 14 to 18 hours per day starting on October 1. Bring them out into bright indirect sunlight for 6 to 8 hours during the day. Temperatures should be between 60 and 70 degrees.

Many Blessings,
GrannySue

Any hints or tips on ensuring nice colored bracts for the holidays are more than welcome - my methods are not exactly fool-proof!  

The Christmas cactus, also known as Orchid Cactus, is a great Christmas gift idea. Its a popular, winter-flowering houseplant native to Brazil.

These are "succulent" plants, preferring dry feet, but moist air. They are native to the rain forest, and so require a bit more moisture than their cacti cousins and other desert-dwelling succulents.

Blooms come in a range of colors from purple and magenta to pink, orange, cream and white.

This particular species blooms in winter, while its relatives, such as the Thanksgiving cactus and the Easter cactus, bloom in fall and spring respectively.

Christmas cactus have been kept as houseplants since at least the 1800's. They are usually available in bud or bloom from late October thru December. They can be found in a variety of tabletop sizes as well as in hanging baskets.

To keep your Christmas cactus looking its best, be sure to keep it in a cool, bright area, but out of direct sunlight. Do not place this plant near heat sources, vents or drafts.

Water it when the top inch or so of soil is dry to the touch, but do not let it stand in water, as this plant will drop its blooms and wilt.

These plants are easy to keep throughout the year, and can be encouraged to grow by pinching off the outer two or three stem segments after the flowers have faded.

Only pinch off one section if it happened to flower on a short stem.

Fertilize about once every three to four months with a 20-20-20 fertilizer, and be sure to stop from October until after the blooming cycle.

60 to 80 degrees is ideal, but for blooming the following year, a period of increasing darkness or cool temperatures is required.

You can keep them to natural daylight hours if you keep the temperature between 50 and 60 degrees 24/7 starting in early November. Otherwise, they need increasing darkness, culminating at 12 hours per day, starting in mid-October.

If one or both of these situations is developed, the Christmas cactus should be in full bloom by the holidays.